1860s Gored Corset (Redthreaded)

A quick write-up on making a new corset! I’ve previously made Redthreaded’s Regency Stays and enjoyed the experience. This will go under the 1875 Seaside Dress that I have in progress..

I’m using their 1860s Gored Corset pattern, size L.

I’m making this with steel boning and some excellent black herringbone cotton coutil.

I bought a black busk once I realized I’d gotten black coutil. (I’d ordered white, but it shipped from the UK so I figured asking for an exchange wasn’t worth the time. Joke’s on me – I got the fabric in November and didn’t cut into it until April. At least my dress fabric is very opaque!

I’m not sure whether black corsets were a thing in the 1860s; I’ve only found darker blue so far. (Not that that stopped me with the 1890s corset I made out of some weird polyester drapery fabric…)

1860s silk corset, Powerhouse Museum

Anyway. Onward and upward:

My bust gussets are getting cleaner!

Coutil is a miracle worker – no wrinkles here! However, it is actual hell to pin. I haven’t had that much finger pain since I had to do 40 buttonholes by hand at Plimoth.

I made sure that my channels were very clean, as well; my spiral steels wouldn’t be able to fit into them if I didn’t stitch on the utmost edge.

As it says on the photo: sooo fast. Wow. After taking what, fifteen hours? to do the binding of the 1776 stays by hand, I was ready for a break!

It fits wonderfully – cradles all the right proportions – except that it’s a big big, so the edges meet in back. It won’t be a bad fit – I wouldn’t want to wear it any tighter to begin with – but it had better not stretch at all!

I sewed it all in a day – just under eight hours – and so had to wait to take a detail picture the next day in actual light. It just looked like an abyss in night lighting! No, of course I don’t have a waist….

IMG_9029

 

The bust gussets on this thing are frankly delightful. It’s been a while since I made a corset that actually fit all of my bosom comfortably.

Overall: Excellent pattern, and I will probably be making another in the future!

I might do a bit of fancy flossing on this eventually, but I have more pressing costumey things to do for now.

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